Sunday, May 15, 2016

Grafitti or Street Art?


Street art is *everywhere* in Berlin. There are murals painted and pasted on buildings and all kinds of spray paint projects that go far beyond simple tags. I get the sense that Berlin is like the cool Aunt who looks the other way when her niece does something daring. Grafitti is not legal, but it's all but encouraged. The line between works commissioned on a building versus those that appear unbidden can get very blurry!





Back at Viktoriapark


It's one of the joys of hanging out in a new city for thirty days instead of five to ten - I can go back and visit places many times. Viktoriapark is one of those places. Sure, everybody waxes poetic about the waterfall, but if you keep your eyes, nose, and ears on alert, this park is amazing!

Birds are very happy and the park attracts many different talkative species. People too, of course. It's the plantings that really make a visit sweet. A wild variety of trees and lavender bushes as big as trees and in full bloom. Oh the aroma when the wind blew! Many pretty flowers blooming and lots of park benches to admire it all from. Even the park benches appeared to "bloom" with color.


Landmark Comfort


This glorious church was a terrific landmark for me during our stay in Berlin. When the train pulled into the station I knew beyond a doubt it was my stop. When I needed to orient on a map, there was that triangular green sliver marking the church and its green space - like a green island surrounded by a moat of traffic!

Sunday, May 8, 2016

Berlin Reflections

Why would anyone want to pick, somewhat randomly, to live and work somewhere else for a month? Why would I?



This year we chose to rent an apartment in Berlin, Germany for four weeks. I had heard of the city's reputation for the arts, for being edgy. I didn't do any research into that or plan the trip. It was a feeling I had about Berlin based on random information collected in my head over the years. Rich found a flat and flights and we booked. I didn't even really read the tour guides ahead of time - some flipping through pictures and reading captions.

For me it's about the thrilling stimulation of an entirely new environment. The language barrier adds a distinctly challenging component. I'm thrown really far out of my comfort zone. Travel is fun, but it is also exhausting, uncomfortable, and full of learning and discovering through misadventure. When one travels, one doesn't expect to be happy every minute - even if it was a vacation. But it's not a vacation.

The first week is about orientation and finding a rhythm. How do we buy food? Where is the public transportation and how does it connect us? What kind of workday routine can I establish?  What are the topmost important things I want do while I am here?

Our first day we walked ten miles. We walked to the big train station to buy our transit passes and we cruised that part of the city. It was drizzling intermittently and very cold. We took respite at a cafe for a cup of warming coffee and watched street performers and crowds of shoppers milling about.


If in the first week everything felt slightly hostile - Who would be on the street when I walked out the door? Which direction should I walk in? Was that group of men menacing or socializing? - in the second week I had more confidence.

All of the essentials were accounted for and my neighborhood looked familiar to me. My brother and his partner came to visit and rented their own flat. We had dinner at their place. We wandered and did some sightseeing together. My work routine was comfortable and afternoons were free for play with few work obligations in the evenings.


The third week was the sweet spot! I know my way around now. We have already explored, mostly on foot, many of the neighborhoods, which means the streets and buildings give me an orientation to the public transport and which direction is home. English is very common and making a purchase or buying a meal is no big deal. I have been really relaxed!

We've done almost every important sightseeing item on our list. And we have connected with people. We met my colleague's son who lives and works here with his family. We even lunched with our landlords from our first extended trip in Prague in 2008! They live here in a beautiful neighborhood, and are married with two small children.


As we look toward our last week here in Berlin it feels strange to think about the transition back to Florida. What can we do to make our last days here memorable? What will we take away from the Berlin experience?

I know that when we walk through our front door we will be back home. We will wake up the next day and it will almost feel like we never left (sans the unpacking). But we have changed. I have changed.

Working during my stay changes the way I think about my work. It helps me step back and review it with fresh eyes. Getting to break up my day and play in a new city for a few hours every day pushes me to re-think how I live when I'm not traveling. Generally, those are not comfortable, cozy thoughts.

But balance them against the delight of the German, dark, brown bread that weighs as much as brick and is delicious with honey on top; thick, rich coffee served with a cookie; creative and complex street art in every neighborhood; and getting to see 1980s-style punk rockers at a massive street party in Kreuzberg - that slight discomfort becomes a welcome part of the travel experience.


Schloss Charlottenburg



The arctic front has moved on and spring is in full swing again in Berlin! Discard your glove! Shed your coat! Embrace the sun! And smell the flowers in the gardens at Schloss Charlottenburg...



Gallery Weekend Berlin


My brother and his partner visited us in Berlin and stayed for a week. We have such a good time with them wherever we are, but we had the pleasure of hanging out with them on Gallery Weekend Berlin! We picked two clusters of art galleries to explore. Doors were open and people were on the street. It was a beautiful day and the variety of art on display was fantastic. I was so excited to see the work of living artists!

But whose art will I remember? Probably my brother, Todd's. Todd is a storyteller fascinated by the world around him. So many stories in his two pictures below! And don't miss the subtle cue from the graffiti in the park scene.



Picasso said "What I want is that my picture should evoke nothing but emotion". And emotion is primarily how we humans experience our world, but I also enjoy art that tells a story (or many stories) that touch upon the emotions we associate with each successive scene.

Want a riot? Fuggedaboutit! Kreuzberg May Day


Do these folks look like left-wing demonstrators? That guy there is happily checking out his photos while he is being photographed by me. Oh no. This is a festival! There is a very recent, violent history of May 1st Labour Day gatherings in the Kreuzberg neighborhood. If you are to believe the ExBerliner, the police have conspired to turn it into a festival and appear to have succeeded last year and this year.


The threat of violence didn't really matter that much to us at around 2pm in the afternoon. Sure people had started drinking, but they had only just begun, which means people were happy. We followed the crowds from the U-bahn station and found ourselves strolling down Oranienstrasse. The stores had pulled down their gates, but were selling from tables lining the street.

As we approached Heinrichplatz I took the plunge and purchased a mojito for 3 Euros. It was so delicious that Rich decided he needed to have one too. We staked out a piece of curb near the square and watched.

There were some punk rockers on a bit of a hill in a grassy area - dressed as if it were still the 1980s. There were two stages set up on either side of the square and they competed for our ears. The thumping bass on the one side was impossible to ignore. As we sat and drank the people continued to stream by. All kinds. Mostly young and quite a few with their big-wheeled, shock-absorbing strollers.

Turns out we positioned ourselves with a solid view of ... the porta-potties! Lines of mostly women, waiting. Behind us you might see a man standing, facing the low fence separating the green from the buildings.

By the time I went back for our second round of mojitos (they were so tasty!) I could barely pass through the crowd, it had thickened so much. Round two was it for us. After that we hopped the train back to our apartment for dinner and a quiet night. Tourists.

Saturday, May 7, 2016

Out and About


It's week three of our Berlin adventure and we were out and about on this gorgeous, sunny day. This week has been my sweet spot. Where it finally feels comfortable, not alien. I'm very relaxed. Could it be we have only one more week?